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Rather than running the bike not knowing if it was getting oil, I just ran premixed 2 stroke straight in the tank. Great, thanks. Just reviving this thread, are you realy sure that you can disable the oil pump and just premix?

I ran mine for over a year and then my dad ran it for about the same time as me at the mx track. Then he sold it and the young guy that rode it then did so for another year or so before he blew it up by thinking it was a race bike. If the tube from the oil pump goes only into the carb then I cannot see how it will make a difference. I can understand if the line from the pump also goes to the engine and directly injects it in there.

But I don't think it does. Oh well.

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I just had a look at some stuff and there is a good chance if removed on one that needs it to lube the left main bearing that it will fail. I didn't remember seeing and holes or bolts on top of the gearbox where those lines would have bolted to. Thanks i'l see if i can work out the vin on the internet, there is a way to decifer it Sounds like you will be spending some time in front of the pc sifting through a ton of information.

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Suzuki TS series

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1973 Suzuki TS185

Posted May 1, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. I had one of similar age and found most of the time the oil pump system didn't work. When working it injected oil into the fuel and just creates 2 stroke fuel. It's a basic 2 stroke engine. Gearbox bearings are lubed by the gearbox oil.

Big and little end bearing lubed by oil in fuel. Mine ran like that for years and then years with my dad riding it.

suzuki ts185m

There's a good chance the oil bottle was taken off because it wasn't working anyway. I can't remember about the two plugs. Probably a twin spark set up to better burn fuel.

suzuki ts185m

Take them out and see if you get spark out of both. I remember Nissan pintara's had twin plugs in them for a while. Posted May 2, Ok thanks, that was all the info i was after! Posted May 15, Stuffed if I know.Suzuki TS Sierra. The gap between and dual-purpose machines is a hard one to fill.

The manufacturer must decide to design his machine to include the best features of the light weight, nimble handling, low cost along with the desirable qualities of a lots of power and torque. This "in-between" sized motorcycle can make an owner very happy if it's been done properly, and Suzuki's Sierra fills the bill.

Starting with the basics of their off-road model, such as the frame, Suzuki was off to a good beginning. They needed only to refine here and strengthen there so that the once could accept the now more powerful new cc engine unit.

But don't get the wrong idea. The Suzuki may have borrowed some items from the smallerbut it's an altogether different motorcycle to ride and enjoy. It's got a personality all its own. The frame, taken from the Duster, has been strengthened and reinforced in areas of stress created by the new engine.

A single toptube and downtube joined at the steering head, while a pair of smaller tubes extend under the engine and curl up to join with the toptube. This main frame section is amply cross-braced to provide rigidity and prevent flexing.

Seat, rear fender and shocks mount to the sub frame and swinging arm section. A perforated, stamped steel skid plate attaches to the frame for rock protection. Welds left something to be desired, but the black finish was applied nicely. Suspension chores are carried out in a fine manner. Front forks have ample travel and good rebound and damping characteristics, but also feature adjustable spring rates for riders of different weight.

The cam-type adjusters are located in the top of each fork tube, and can be twisted with a screwdriver to allow soft, medium or hard settings. It only takes a few minutes to change. Rear shocks are surprisingly good for Japanese units, and are five-way adjustable. Progressively wound springs are painted black, departing from the chrome finish found on most machines.

The forks do a good job of soaking up the little undulations along a backwoods trail, but at the same time they don't get snowed by the huge thud of a jump or the crashing blow of a deep hole. Over rippling surfaces the rear shocks don't pump up and quit working, and as a result the rear end of the machine doesn't hop all over the trail with the rider fighting for control.

You guide the Sierra, it doesn't guide you. Steel rims inch front. The wheels on the Sierra come with rim locks and balance weights, something you don't find on many din bikes. A nice touch, we think. The brakes on our test machine surprised us. The front unit is quite small but stopped much belter than we thought it would. The rear unit, too, is light weight, yet it really works.

So often brakes of this size give problems when it's time to slow down. The ones on the Sierra had lots of feel so that the rider could descend a steep hill without locking the wheels, an important asset on any dirt machine.

Also, they allow a rider a margin of safety when riding on the street. The IRC Trials tires are a good compromise for dual-purpose riding, but are more suited to the dirt, like the Sierra.

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Tread patterns are the same front and rear, and the sizes are just right for most riding. Ground clearance with the stock tires is an ample 9.The Suzuki TS series is a family of two-strokedual-sport motorcycles made by Suzuki since The series was the first Suzuki trail bikes sold on the mass market.

Most of the TS line had an air-cooled engine and most models were introduced alongside the closely related TM Motocross or TC trail models, TF farm and also the DS for Dirt Sport, which had no turn signals, and simplified lighting which in most cases shared engine and chassis designs.

Suzuki's first mass market motocross bike, the TM Cyclone, was introduced in and was based on the TS that first sold in A TSER model was available in a few countries.

The TS is lighter than the by a few pounds, and has nearly the power of the but with a much more free revving motor. With the only major redesign of the motors of this series, the new range shifted to a combined reed-valve and piston port type.

No37 SUZUKI空冷2ストTS185ERハスラー君来ました

In the North American market a cc race kit was available for the TS The size was to match an established class. It consisted of an expansion chamber, new cylinder and head, piston, thin rings, larger carburetor, and much lower gearing.

Different gearing was available for most models. These bikes were based on the ER range. The TF is still in production. It has left-and-right side stands with large bases, a large rear carrier, headlight and lever protection, a single seat, bash plate, large mud flaps and knobby tyres. The very similar TC series was based on the TS series, with dual range gearboxes. Model names vary by region.

They were then superseded by the mono-shock TSX model. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Retrieved 9 January Global Suzuki. Suzuki Motor Corporation. June Suzuki Motos Bolivia. Suzuki New Zealand. These two-strokes were reliable, easy to maintain and most importantly, got farmers around the farm with the minimum of fuss. Guinean Suzuki. Archived from the original on 10 January Retrieved 10 January Ghanaian Suzuki. Categories : Suzuki motorcycles Dual-sport motorcycles Motorcycles introduced in Two-stroke motorcycles.

Hidden categories: Pages using deprecated image syntax Commons category link is on Wikidata. Namespaces Article Talk.Make Suzuki. These are 2 Suzuki TS motorcycles. They are parts bikes with no titles, bill of sale only. They are complete bikes. Both engines are included. There are a lot of good usable parts. Model TS X. This is a tremendous find. This bike is stock right down to its mirrors.

The TS was absolutely the best dual purpose bike of its period. Light nimble, great handling. I rode one to the highest off road peaks in It is truly unusual to find a top quality dual purpose Suzuki that wasn't ridden hard off road.

Suzuki's had issues with chrome, but not this one which must have been stored inside all the time. Speedo and tach function properly and are bright and unfaded. Stock turn signals that are straight and unbent. Rims are bright without rust. The gas tank is near perfect paint and decals, inside is bright and un rusted. The seat has no rips or tears, stencelled Suzuki clearly on the rear. Brakes are the best I have ever seen on a period enduro bike.

Oil injection connected and working as expected.Skip to main content. Watch this item. Bidding has ended on this item. Posts to:. This amount is subject to change until you make payment. For additional information, see the Global Shipping Programme terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab This amount includes applicable customs duties, taxes, brokerage and other fees.

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Suzuki Burgman fsh. Rm80 Classic. Suzuki GT Butchered classic custom project. Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Item specifics Condition: Used: An item that has been previously used. See all condition definitions — opens in a new window or tab Read more about the condition. Fantastic condition as shown in pictures ,lots of money spent over the years and has been regularly run.

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suzuki ts185m

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There is no battery. I used a multimeter to check the ignition switch and the continuity from the CDI to the ignition coil, and they seem fine.

When I put my thumb on the wire going into the ignition coil and kick the starter, I get a little zap, so I know there's some heat going into it. But where the ignition coil connects to the spark plug there is a much, much weaker zap. So I replaced the ignition coil and spark plug but still no spark. I have spent a lot of time trying to learn about working on the bike, but this electrical issue seems beyond my grasp. I am really not sure what to do.

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Any advice or guiding words? Thanks, Chris. Did you replace the spark plug wire? When those get old the insulation breaks down and the wire won't hold the necessary voltage you need at the plug.

This would be consistent with your description of getting a bigger zap at the coil end than at the plug end. Tom PS Welcome aboard! In the end, regrets rarely come from things done, but from things not even tried.

Do the easy things first, replace the plug cap and remove the left side casing where the clutch cable goes in. Clean it all up behind that casing and dry it out if its wet and dirty and rusty where your ignition coils are. It's not hard to remove the flywheel on a TS If that doesn't fix it I'd start swapping out stuff until it worked, which would be easy if you were here, :I have 2 of them in the back shed. Too bad you didn't get one that was just a little newer, they went to a 21" front rim on the newer ones.

I replaced the whole ignition coil with one I bought on eBay. So i have two coils, and two plug caps, and both of them measure 1 ohm primary resistance, 20k ohm secondary resistance with plug cap, 10k without cap. It is supposed to be 12k according to the manual, so is that too much of a difference? I haven't been able to remove the spark plug wire because it is molded into the ignition coil unit.

I have tried taking off the left side casing but once I get the nut off of the flywheel I can't manage to pull it off to check resistance on the stator.

They seem to have a specific puller tool designed for that. By the way, I think you are confusing ignition coils, pulser coils, and exciter coils? Tried a third plug, no luck. Evil things that will drive you nuts if dirty, gapped incorrectly, or worn.

Originally Posted by taylorcraft Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens. Nothing to add mechanically Originally Posted by bikebitsmall. Originally Posted by CaptCrash. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page:. Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg Del.Log in or Join.

Suzuki Ts185 Motorcycles for sale

Adventure Rider. How reliable is the Suzuki TS? VenomRS4Apr 23, So, I just picked up a TS for fairly cheap. I love the idea of having a street legal 2 stroke to rip around town with, maybe commute to work a day or two per week, and hit the occasional trails.

I have no plans to take the highway but I'd like to put about 50 miles per week on it. How reliable are these bikes? No points Would the age of the bike scare you? JPG File size: Joined: Apr 1, Oddometer: Location: Australia. Very, very reliable bikes. Sometimes CDI units will fail through old age, sometimes they go forever. Just do the usual things like making sure that the air cleaner is good and that it doesn't run out of oil and it should be trouble-free for a long time yet.

DeuceApr 24, You will die before it does. Mobil1 likes this. LWCApr 25, They are very reliable. Just don't be an idiot and disconnect the oil pump like many people do. I personally have never heard of a one failing though. Before you go putting any big miles on it get a workshop manual. I recommend getting both the Haynes and the factory suzuki manual. They will be a great help to you. Then re-grease or replace all the bearings.

People tend to neglect the swingarm bushings and teh swingarm develops side play. If you are keen you can upgrade the bushes to RM needle bearings and bushes.


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